|[ home ] [ hard-drive ] [ sound ]|
Remove the front fascia. There are four screws, two at the top (headphone jack end) and two more at the bottom (USB end). Using a small phillips screwdriver remove the screws (tip .... make sure that you use a correctly sized screwdriver, and be careful. It is very easy to strip the head off the screws). Carefully remove the front fascia by lifting it vertically up. Now remove the battery covers (a lot easier once the front fascia is removed). Remove the batteries. Place all of the bits that you are removing in a safe place / container
Remove the four hard-drive screws on the sides of the AJB6000. You require a star bit to do this. Now carefully remove two of the blue bumpers from the USB end. You will probably bend the metal case a bit getting them off. It is hard to describe how to remove them. See the last two photos on reassembly to get an idea. Essentially you have to squeeze the bumper so you can clear the two parts of the metal case. Once you have removed the USB end bumpers, lift the remaining two blue bumpers (marked in red) clear of the circuit board and then wiggle and slide the main body of the AJB6000 out of the metal case.
Turn the main unit upside down. We now need to remove the hard-drive. The hard-drive is plugged into the AJB at the headphone end. To remove it we need to clear the circuit board at the USB end and then disconnect it from the main unit. Carefully lift the USB end of the hard-drive up and away from the AJB. You only need to lift the drive end to clear the circuit board at the end of the AJB.
Now using a flat blade screw drive work the hard-drive out of the connector. Make sure that as you do this, it continues to clear the USB end of the circuit board. Once you have the hard-drive loosened away from the connector a bit, you should be able to carefully wiggle and pull it out of the connector. Place the hard-drive somewhere safe.
Remove the insulating plate that was underneath the hard-drive and you will see the main boards of the AJB6000. We need to remove top circuit board so that we can access the screws holding the screen assembly on the front of the main Jukebox body.
This is the tricky bit. You have two options. You can either remove the metal surround by unsoldering all of the tabs around the AJB (shown by the red arrows above, and possibly some more points since I did not try this) and hence gain access to removing the top board, or you can take the easier route (in my opinion) by removing the tabs themselves. I tried bending the tabs vertically, but found the clearance to tight to lift the top board clear.
I ended up removing the tabs, by cutting them with
a Dremel tool and metal cutting disc. I thought this would be safer than
trying to cut them with sidecutters or bending them until they broke. Your
mileage may vary.
Now that we have removed the tabs (or bent them / or removed the metal surround) we can remove the top circuit board. This is a two step process. Carefully work the USB end of the board vertically, so that we unplug a large header underneath. If you look carefully you can see this.
Once you have the board clear of the header at the USB end, we need to unplug the headphone end by working the board horizontally away in the direction of the arrow below. Be careful and do it slowly and you will be fine. Do not force it! but realise that it is a socket and could be tight. Place the top board somewhere safe.
Now remove the two screws marked below. They hold the front screen assembly onto the Jukebox.
Carefully remove the front plastic part of the display. Remove the large control button.
The contact pad, or zebra strip where the LCD display contacts the circuit board will appear to be tacky, but you can very carefully lift away the LCD screen. Do not touch the zebra strip or the circuit board contacts, or you will have problems getting the screen to work when you reassemble it.
Now remove the plastic LCD backplate. This channels the light from the LEDs to light the entire LCD. Carefully lift it clear. Note that the LED board is kind-of wedged into the plastic backplate, so you will have to lift it vertically. Also note that there is a white sheet of plastic attached to the back of the backplate. This should leave you with the view below.
You now need to desolder the LED board. From the reverse side desolder the two legs.
Here we can see ten amber LED's along side the LED board from the Jukebox. Note that the LEDs on the LED board are bonded on with a clear adhesive. They aren't soldered.
Here I have drawn a circuit diagram of the LED layout. The LED's are in a 2x2 configuration. ie two pairs of paralleled LEDs in series. If you are replacing your LEDs with Orange, Amber, Red, Yellow you can leave them in this layout. However if you are using Blue, White or Purple LEDs you will need to have them all in parallel to get enough voltage.
Originally I attempted to make a replacement LED board. I only had 1.5mm thick, single sided copper board, and I found shaping it difficult. Additionally the board was to thick! I gave up half way through and decided to reuse the original board.
You can remove the original LEDs by using a sharp thin blade (what I would call a scalpel knife). Carefully slice away at the bonding compound and leaver the original LEDs off the LED board.
Now for the soldering fun. Below you can get a good idea of the size of the replacement LED's. I have used a quarter and a ten pence coin for scale. There is a LED on each.
After a bit of trial and error I found the best way of soldering the LEDs was to pre-tin the LED board with a little bit of solder, and then press each one down onto the two pads of solder, apply a bit of heat at each end, allowing the solder to flow again, and the LED sinks down into it.
Here you can see the remade LED board. This is the second time I have replaced the LEDs on the board, last time I used two Amber LEDs in the centre, this time the centre two are Orange, and end two are Red. At the bottom of this page you can see pictures of the display with the various colours.
Now we need to reassemble. Replace the LED board and resolder it. Now replace the white plastic sheet as below.
Now replace the plastic LCD backplate. There is a notch and channel inside the backplate for the LED board to fit into. Make sure you line it up with the LED board, and get it centred and flat. Replace the LCD display. Make sure that you centre it ... ie the centre of the zebra pad is positioned in the centre of the gold pads on the PCB.
Reverse the rest of the disassembly procedure detailer earlier for the display. Replace the front plastic display screen and control button and carefully replace the two screws on the reverse side. They need to be reasonably tight to get the LCD z-stripe to recontact the gold stripes on the board. Make sure that you use a well fitting screwdriver or you will strip the head off the screws! Reassemble the rest of the AJB reversing the disassembly procedures above. Make sure that you seat the top PCB carefully. Once I had the hard-drive plugged back in I jumpered some power to the AJB to test the mod. In case you have made a mistake it is a lot easier to go back from this point, as you will find out in a moment when you reattach the blue bumpers!
Above you can see two Amber LEDs lighting the display. You can see darker areas where the illumination is not even due to using only two LEDs. Below there are two Orange LEDs in the centre and two Red LEDs. The Red LEDs are definitely brighter and almost completely wash out the Orange LEDs. You can just see a bit of orange in the centre of the display below.
Slide the AJB body back into the metal case, carefully clearing the top blue bumpers.
Now for the tricky bit! You need to squeeze the blue bumper together so that you can clear the two projections from the metal case, without bending them to much!
You will also need to reseat the base of the bumper into the case after doing this. Be patient and you won't bend your case! Finally replace the top cover and all of the screws.
Done. Appreciate any comments or corrections ... firstname.lastname@example.org